Polyester spandex is one fabric that’s very challenging to sew and hem as it stretches in two ways; it stretches lengthwise and crosswise on the grain of the fabric. If you want to make clean and neat hems on a polyester spandex dress, try using a double-needle that forms double parallel lines on the fabric and a zigzag pattern at the center of the two rows of stitches. When you sew with spandex, you face the challenge of working with fabric that has a two-way stretch, both lengthwise and crosswise on the grain of the fabric. One of the keys to making sure your hems will be long (or short) enough is to wear the right shoes with them and take a … If the seam does pop, just shorten the stitch length a bit or increase the stitch width. So if you’re not a fan of baggy knees, you might want to I need to hem a skirt that is too long. Place the spandex fabric into the sewing machine with the wrong side facing up so you can see the zigzagged edge of the pinned fabric. This makes sure that the outfit stays in place and also prevents it from sagging or stretching. Again, with rayon’s shifting tendencies, you may find that your hem has dropped a surprising amount. If you don’t have a special stretchy thread it’s still okay. As you sew the stretch stitch, expect the sewing process to take longer than usual because your sewing machine will be stitching two forward stitches and then one backward stitch along the entire hemline. Place the item on a hanger and allow it to hang vertically for 24 hours. Step 5 Ensure you have the right fabric for your project or pattern. The blind hem will not be very noticeable from the right side of the spandex. Before adding the elastic, make the panels into which you will add the elastic later on. Place straight pins every 1/2 inch to prevent shifting of the fabric. Alternatively, if you have a serger use it to stitch the raw edge of the spandex instead of sewing a zigzag stitch. BUY HEAT 'n BOND on Amazon (affiliate link): http://bit.ly/Buy-Heat-n-Bond - No sewing machine? Fabrics should also offer thermal insulation depending on what climate yo… Place the spandex fabric into your sewing machine and zigzag the raw edge of the spandex to prevent it from unraveling. Before you start sewing your polyester fabric spandex to make a dress, there are a number of things you can do to make sure that the process goes smoothly all the way to hemming. However, both woven and knit polyester fabric… Whether you're in the middle of a sewing or quilting project or you're trying to salvage a Start with a medium zigzag using a little bit longer stitch length than the default setting (2 up to even 3, depending on how much the fabric will be stretched out). If you do not want to use interfacing or undo the original hem, an alternative method to keep the hem from rolling is to trim off all the excess fabric inside and then do a top stitch above the original hem with a twin needle and the If you have a blind hem foot for your sewing machine, go ahead and sew a blind hem once you have finished the raw edge of the polyester. Two Ways to Hem Chiffon Fabric This tutorial "How to hem chiffon" will be useful when you need to hem pants and skirts that are sewn from lightweight thin fabrics. I’ve looked at 4 possibilities below. A lot of pressure on the presser foot pulls the fabric as you sew it which results in puckering. Remove the pins to finish. You also shouldn’t let the fabric hang over the edge of the working surface – this pulls the fabric. Leave it to dry flat for at least a day so that it keeps its shape. I did a few hundred of this type of jean hem in my last job doing alterations. Test on a fabric scrap to make sure that the seam won’t pop when stretched out. Your email address will not be published. Spandex: that magical fabric that moves with you and allows your waistband to stretch a couple more inches when you eat extra cookies. Learning how to effectively stop fabric from fraying can save you time, aggravation, and money. As a regular contributor to Natural News, many of Hatter's Internet publications focus on natural health and parenting. Practice sewing on scrap Lycra fabric. Test the different stitch lengths and the tension setting on scrap fabric to ensure that the fabric does not pucker while you sew. Set the sewing machine to a stretch stitch. Then release it and see if the fabric returns to 4″. The needle should be specifically designed for sewing stretchy fabric. Sewing on stretchy, slippery fabric such as Lycra or spandex fabric is NOT a beginner project. Step 5 Sew the stretch stitch along the fabric to hem the spandex. Also, the stretchy fabric can be troublesome to … It has been a favorite for dance costumes, gymnastics outfits, skating costumes, exercise wear, and swimwear since it was introduced in the 1950s. Created by Tie Dye Diva Sewing Patterns Let’s dispel some fear about working with one of our favorite super soft fabrics, Double Brushed Poly (DBP)!DBP fabric has gained popularity recently as the perfect leggings fabric, but we’re beginning to see it being used for many more types of garments that call for a light to mid-weight knit fabric. Cut 1/2″ strips of the same fabric you’re working with with the stretch going the long way. When sewing the hem of an elastic dress, sometimes it becomes necessary that you reinforce the hems with elastic in some parts such as the waist. This is done to finish the raw edges of an outfit at the neckline, armhole, cuffs, ankles, etc. Fold your fabric along the edge to create a double or single fold hem, then top stitch with the double needle an even distance away from the folded edge. Proceed with the remaining hemming steps after serging the raw edge of the spandex. To figure out the stretch percentage line up the cut edge of your fabric next to a ruler *. It is 68% rayon, 28% polyester, 4% spandex. Thanks to fabric.com, they offer athletic knits, made for performance wear with bonus points for cool prints and colors. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Knit fabric hemming can be some of the most frustrating sewing there is. Avoid pulling the fabric as you sew or hem it. Lycra or Spandex (same thing, just different brands) give a fabric the ability to stretch and will also give it recovery, or the ability to return to its original shape after stretching. Lay the strip of fabric along the edge that needs to be hemmed. How wide you cut the binding depends on the width you want (the range should be between ¾ and 1 inch). Set the sewing machine to stitch a medium-width zigzag stitch along the raw edge of the spandex. No problem! But, with these 10 sewing tips, you are guaranteed to have a fighting chance. A commercial or hand-designed pattern for the dress, About 2-3 yards of polyester spandex or just enough fabric for your pattern, Zipper, buttons, or other closures depending on the design, Prep the fabric for sewing by washing it in advance then cut it using sharp scissors and later pin it with ballpoint pins, If you don’t have a special stretchy thread it’s still okay. Rayon has the poorest recovery of any fiber on the market. While spandex is wonderful in our clothes, sewing spandex can be a little difficult. A narrow zigzag stitch is also effective. 3. Today, we’re getting into the meat of spandex construction, and I’ll also mention a few ways that you can finish off spandex projects. A stretch stitch works well for sewing stretchy fabric because your machine will stitch two forward stitches and then one backward stitch, creating a stitch that will stretch with the stretch of the spandex. Secondly, pin your pieces together. How to Stop Fabric from Fraying. An all-purpose polyester thread is a great choice for sewing spandex. It is a really delicate and stretchy fabric. This ensures that they are held together securely and that they don’t stretch and travel as you sew. A walking foot can be very useful for sewing stretch fabrics. A different technique can be used with each. You add binding to the edges which are then sewn into a seam. A skirt hem on a low stretch fabric, for example, won’t need as much “give” as say, the neckline on a very stretchy fabric. Sewing machine (with zigzag and stretch stitches). Spandex is a great fabric for garments that need to stretch with your body. 2. 2. 1. When you start sewing your polyester spandex dress with your chosen stitch, let the fabric feed naturally into the machine. Determine the hem you desire and turn the fabric to the wrong side along this line. These will make the whole process easier and save you time and frustration in the end. Hold the fabric at the selvedge and 4″ and stretch the fabric as wide as it goes. Welcome back to the Spandex 101 series! Photo by Aperture Ashley. I have a couple of pairs of pants that are 93% polyester and 7% spandex. If you want you can create a double foldable hem that fully encloses the elastic. Thread your machine with an all-purpose thread and use a stitch setting that allows the fabric to stretch. 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